Why This Recipe Works

The defining aspects of this hyperlocal dish from Bari, Italy, are spaghetti strands with textures that run from soft to al dente to crisp (even within a single strand) and a spicy, concentrated tomato sauce that clings tightly to the pasta. To achieve these hallmarks, we started by including a generous amount of extra-virgin olive oil in a simple sauce of garlic, red pepper flakes, and passata di pomodoro (uncooked tomato puree). We then added raw spaghetti to the sauce in a skillet, followed periodically by cupsful of a simple tomato broth (tomato paste diluted with water). Each time the pan threatened to dry out, we added more broth. We made sure not to stir the pasta too much as it turned tender and started to crisp and char in spots. To finish the delicious, deeply satisfying dish, we turned the heat to full blast so that some of the strands could develop a smoky char.

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Before You Begin

This recipe was developed with our winning spaghetti, De Cecco Spaghetti No. 12. Other brands of spaghetti may vary in thickness, which will affect the cooking time and the amount of broth required. Fish spatulas work well for flipping the pasta in step 4. Passata is an uncooked tomato puree; we used Pomì brand. If you cannot find it, tomato puree can be used. For a spicier dish, use ¾ teaspoon of red pepper flakes. The sauce will splatter as it cooks, which is why we call for using a long-handled spatula in step 2. A splatter screen helps contain the splattering.

Instructions

Whisk 6 cups water, ¼ cup tomato paste, and 1 teaspoon sugar together in medium saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to low to keep tomato broth warm.

Heat ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, 2 minced garlic cloves, and ½–¾ teaspoon red pepper flakes in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently with long-handled rubber spatula, until garlic is golden brown, about 2 minutes.

Stir in 1 cup tomato passata and 1¾ teaspoons table salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until sauce thickens and oil around edges of skillet begins to sizzle, about 4 minutes.

Add 12 ounces spaghetti in even layer and increase heat to medium-high. Add 1 cup tomato broth and cook, pushing between pasta strands frequently with edge of spatula to prevent clumping, until broth has been mostly absorbed by pasta and sauce around edges of skillet begins to sizzle, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 1 cup broth and cook, shaking skillet occasionally and continuing to prod pasta strands with spatula, until broth has been mostly absorbed and sauce begins to sizzle, 5 to 7 minutes.

Using 2 thin spatulas, gently flip half of pasta so bottom is on top and spread into even layer. Repeat with remaining half of pasta. Add 1 cup broth and cook, continuing to shake skillet and prod pasta, until broth has been mostly absorbed and sauce begins to sizzle, 5 to 7 minutes. Add 1 cup broth and repeat cooking until sauce begins to sizzle, 5 to 7 minutes.

Repeat dividing and flipping pasta. Add 1 cup broth and repeat cooking until sauce begins to sizzle, 5 to 7 minutes. Pasta should be firm but cooked through. If not, add remaining 1 cup broth, ½ cup at a time, and continue to cook, checking frequently, until pasta is cooked through.

Increase heat to high and cook pasta, without moving it, until underside is deeply browned and crisp and some strands are beginning to char, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat, drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and serve immediately.