Why This Recipe Works

For this Italian pantry pasta dish, we used two jars (or cans) of olive oil–packed tuna and a small amount of canned whole tomatoes, crushed by hand to produce small, supple pieces. Lots of garlic, some cooked in olive oil and the rest simply warmed through, contributed potent flavor to the tomato sauce, along with red pepper flakes for heat and anchovies for a briny backbone. To ensure that the tuna stayed moist and silky, we stirred it into slightly underdone spaghetti along with the tomato mixture off the heat and simply let it warm through. This not only gently warmed the fish through so that it held its moisture but also hedged against mushy spaghetti.

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Before You Begin

We prefer spaghetti or linguine for this dish, but short or tubular shapes such as penne, fusilli, farfalle, ziti, or rigatoni also work. Likewise, we prefer oil-packed tuna, but if you happen to have water-packed tuna instead, don't let that stop you. For a spicier dish, use the full ½ teaspoon of red pepper flakes.

Instructions

Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. While water comes to boil, gently stir tuna, lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in small bowl.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil, 1 tablespoon garlic, anchovies, and pepper flakes in saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until oil sizzles gently and anchovies break down, 1½ to 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and their juice and ½ teaspoon salt. Increase heat to high and bring to strong simmer. Adjust heat to maintain gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 6 to 7 minutes. Cover and keep warm over low heat.

Add spaghetti and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water. Cook, stirring often, until barely al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water. Drain pasta and return it to pot. Off heat, add tomato mixture, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper, and remaining 1½ teaspoons garlic and toss until pasta is well coated. Add tuna mixture and toss gently. Cover and set aside for 3 minutes so flavors can meld and pasta can finish cooking.

Adjust consistency of sauce with reserved cooking water as needed. Add ¼ cup parsley and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Distribute among pasta bowls. Drizzle each portion with extra oil, if using. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons parsley and serve.