Why This Recipe Works

In pursuit of focaccia with a light and fluffy crumb, we started with bread flour, which has more of the gluten-forming proteins that give bread dough its elasticity and its ability to retain air. We mixed the flour with a small amount of sugar for flavor and browning, yeast for leavening, some olive oil for flavor and tenderness, and water. To make the most of those flour proteins, we let the mixture sit for a short time to allow the flour to hydrate. Withholding the salt during this period enhanced the hydration of the flour, which allowed the gluten chains to begin linking up. After adding the salt (using a higher ratio than most recipes heightened the flavors), we vigorously stretched and folded the dough to develop the gluten further and to incorporate some air. Twenty minutes later, we built in more strength by stretching the dough into a rectangle and folding it into thirds like a business letter. After we transferred the dough to the pan and slicked it with olive oil, we covered it and let it proof. After the dough had risen upward and spread outward to fill the pan, we gave it a final coating of olive oil to add sheen. Dimpling the risen dough created places for the delectable oil to pool and broke up really large bubbles that might otherwise compromise the structure of our baked focaccia. A sprinkling of flake salt added crunch and characteristic pops of salinity. Baking our focaccia in the middle of the oven ensured that the top would be deep golden brown and the bottom would be crisp.

Want more? Read the whole story

Before You Begin

For the best flavor, use a high quality olive oil that has been opened for no more than one month. We strongly recommend measuring the flour and water by weight. We like the full 1 ½ teaspoons of flake salt, but if you’re sensitive to salt, use less. This bread is best served on the day it’s baked; cooled leftovers may be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days, but the flake salt will gradually dissolve.

Instructions

Whisk 2½ cups (13¾ ounces) bread flour, 2 teaspoons sugar, and 1½ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast together in large bowl. Add 1½ cups (12 ounces) room-temperature water and 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and stir until no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Cover and let sit for 20 minutes.

Sprinkle 2 teaspoons table salt over dough and mix with your wet hand until salt is fully incorporated. With your wet hand, grasp edge of dough, stretch upward, and fold toward opposite side of bowl. Turn bowl 90 degrees and stretch and fold again. Continue to turn, stretch, and fold until dough is slightly tighter and smoother, about 30 times, re-wetting hand if dough begins to stick. Cover and let sit for 20 minutes.

Lightly spray bottom and sides of 13 by 9-inch baking pan with vegetable oil spray. Place 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper over pan and, using both your hands, press parchment down and into corners. Smooth parchment so it is flush with pan bottom and sides (it doesn’t have to be perfectly smooth or go all the way up the sides). Spread 3 tablespoons oil over bottom of pan.

Lightly dampen counter and your hands with water. Transfer dough to counter and gently press and stretch into 15 by 10-inch rectangle (dough will be sticky). Fold in thirds like business letter to create 10 by 5-inch rectangle (use bench scraper, if necessary, to release dough from counter). Invert dough into prepared pan. Swirl to coat with oil; turn over and press to expel large air pockets. Cover and let sit until dough is puffy and jiggly and has flowed toward corners of pan, 2½ to 3 hours.

About 20 minutes before dough has finished resting, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees.

Drizzle remaining 1 tablespoon oil over top of dough. Dimple dough all over with your wet fingertips, pressing all the way to bottom of pan, pushing dough into corners, and breaking up any bubbles larger than 1 inch. Sprinkle with ¾–1½ teaspoons flake sea salt. Bake until deeply browned, 16 to 20 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking.

Using spatula, transfer focaccia to wire rack. Let cool for at least 20 minutes before serving.