Why This Recipe Works

Potato doughnuts, also known as “spudnuts,” are traditional doughnuts with a twist: Mashed potatoes are incorporated in the batter, typically replacing some of the flour, to create a fluffier and moister doughnut. For tall, airy doughnuts, we rely on russet potatoes, which have a high starch content and a fine, fluffy texture when cooked. To cook the potatoes quickly, we peel and cut them into pieces; a brief simmer yields fork-tender pieces, which we hand-mash to break up lumps (without making the potatoes gluey). We add butter and eggs for richness and a tender crumb and baking powder to help the doughnuts rise rapidly in the fryer. We also incorporate sweetened condensed milk into the batter, which yields a creamy, subtly sweet interior and delicately crisp exterior. After chilling and frying, we coat the doughnuts in an elegantly simple glaze, which relies on additional condensed milk for richness.

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Before You Begin

You will need one 14-ounce can of sweetened condensed milk for this recipe (and you will have a little bit left over). You'll need two baking sheets and one wire rack for this recipe. You'll also need 3-inch and 1¼-inch round cutters. For the best results, weigh the flour for the doughnuts and the confectioners’ sugar for the glaze. Heating the oil slowly will make it easier to control the temperature when frying. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more. We prefer using fresh potatoes in this recipe, but you can also substitute instant mashed potato flakes. To hydrate the flakes, stir together 1½ cups (4 ounces/113 grams) flakes with 2 cups boiling water; measure out 2 cups (1 pound /454 grams) of hydrated mixture and use in place of fresh-mashed potatoes in step 2.

Instructions

Place 1½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces, in medium saucepan and add water to just cover. Bring to boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are tender when pierced with fork, about 10 minutes.

Drain potatoes and return to saucepan. Off heat, use potato masher to mash potatoes until no large lumps remain. Measure 2 very firmly packed cups (1 pound/454 grams) potatoes and transfer to large bowl. Stir in 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces, until melted, mashing any remaining potato pieces. Whisk in 1 cup canned sweetened condensed milk and 1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar. Whisk in 3 large eggs until combined.

Whisk 3¾ cups (18¾ ounces) all-purpose flour, 1½ tablespoons baking powder, and 1 teaspoon table salt in second bowl. Using silicone spatula or wooden spoon, stir flour mixture into warm potato mixture until all flour is moistened and dough resembles thick cake batter. Refrigerate, uncovered, until dough is chilled, 1 hour or up to 3 hours.

Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and dust with flour. Dust counter heavily with flour. Turn out dough onto floured counter, then dust top of dough with additional flour. Using your floured hands, gently pat dough into ½-inch-thick round, about 13 inches in diameter.

Using floured 3-inch round cutter, cut 1 doughnut. Using floured 1¼-inch round cutter, cut hole in center of doughnut. Transfer doughnut and hole to prepared sheet. Repeat cutting remaining dough, 1 doughnut at a time, reflouring cutters between cuts (you should have 12 of each; doughnuts can be touching on sheet). Gather dough scraps, form into ball, dust counter and top of dough with flour, and pat ½ inch thick. Repeat cutting to make 3 more doughnuts and holes. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 1 hour or up to 3 hours.

About 20 minutes before frying, add 2 quarts vegetable oil to large Dutch oven and heat over medium heat to 350 degrees. Set wire rack in second rimmed baking sheet and line with triple layer of paper towels. Using both hands, gently place 5 doughnut rounds in oil. Cook until deep golden brown on undersides, 1½ to 2 minutes, adjusting burner as necessary to maintain oil temperature between 325 and 340 degrees. Using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, flip doughnuts and cook until second sides are deep golden brown, about 1½ minutes.

Using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer doughnuts to prepared rack. Return oil to 350 degrees and repeat with remaining doughnut rounds.

Return oil to 350 degrees and, using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, carefully add doughnut holes to hot oil. Cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown on all sides, about 2 minutes. Transfer to prepared rack. Let doughnuts cool, about 15 minutes.

While doughnuts cool, whisk 4 cups (16 ounces) confectioners’ sugar, 6 tablespoons hot water, remaining 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt in medium bowl until smooth. Adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed, 1 teaspoon at a time, until glaze has consistency of runny craft glue. Working with 1 doughnut at a time, dip both sides in glaze, allowing excess to drip back into bowl. Return to rack and repeat with doughnut holes. Let doughnuts and holes stand until glaze has become slightly matte and dry to touch, 15 to 30 minutes, before serving. (Doughnuts can be stored in airtight container at room temperature, stacked between layers of parchment paper, for up to 2 days.)