Why This Recipe Works

To make Italian subs that combined a variety of flavors and textures in a cohesive-but-not-too-dense package, we started by cutting two long, soft-crusted supermarket loaves into 8-inch lengths. The loaves’ width accommodated the wealth of ingredients, their crumb provided enough loft to hold the dressing without becoming soggy, and their soft crust was key in getting a nice clean bite. Lightly emulsifying the traditional oregano-spiked oil-and-vinegar dressing with a touch of mustard helped us disperse it evenly over the bread and shredded lettuce, and a layer of hoagie spread (finely chopped pickled cherry peppers) imbued each bite with zesty heat. Thinly sliced tomatoes and onion supplied savor and pungency, respectively, and finely shredded iceberg lettuce contributed fresh crispness. Randomly folding the thin slices of meat and piling them onto the bread created tiny cavities for the dressing and tomato juices to gather, making each bite juicier, less dense, and more interesting.

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Before You Begin

Look in the bakery section of your supermarket for your bread. If the loaves are longer than 16 inches, reserve any remaining bread for later use; avoid artisanal loaves with sturdy crusts, which will be harder to bite through. Buy the highest-quality deli meats and cheese you can, and ask the attendant to slice them as thin as possible so they can be folded and crumpled easily. Using a sharp knife to slice the tomatoes and onions will help to ensure the thinnest slices. Jarred hoagie spread, which is finely chopped pickled cherry peppers, should be available in the pickle aisle; if you can’t find it, substitute an equal quantity of chopped pickled cherry peppers or banana peppers. Use less hoagie spread if you’re sensitive to spice and only half of an onion if you’re sensitive to raw alliums. This recipe can be easily halved to create two 8-inch sandwiches.

Instructions

Whisk 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, ¼ cup red wine vinegar, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper together to make dressing.

Cut 2 loaves soft-crusted bread into two 8-inch lengths. Slice each length horizontally and arrange cut side up on cutting board. Drizzle 2 tablespoons dressing on each bottom half and spread with back of measuring spoon to distribute evenly. Top each bottom half with 2 thin slices provolone, followed by 4 thin slices salami, 4 thin slices mortadella, 4 thin slices capicola, and 4 thin slices ham, folding each slice randomly to create some height.

Press ham gently to level surface. Shingle tomato slices over ham and distribute sliced onion over tomatoes. Carefully pile 4 cups shredded lettuce on top of onion. Drizzle remaining dressing over lettuce.

Spread one-quarter of hoagie spread evenly over cut side of each sandwich top. Invert tops over sandwiches and press gently. Cut each sandwich in half and serve.