Why This Recipe Works

This recipe, inspired by chef Yia Vang, is a simple take on grilled chicken that he feels showcases Hmong cooking philosophy and technique. Following Vang's lead, we butterflied the chicken but left the backbone intact so that nothing went to waste. We seasoned the chicken with salt, pepper, smoked paprika, and granulated garlic and then cooked it bone-side down on a covered grill, where it picked up gentle smokiness from the coals. To finish, we flipped the chicken to briefly brown and crisp the skin. Finally, we served the chicken with kua txob, a potent sauce of cilantro, fish sauce, lime juice, chiles, and garlic.

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Before You Begin

Note that if you’re cooking the chicken on a gas grill, there is no need to flip it to brown the skin; unlike with a charcoal grill, which loses heat over time, heat in a gas grill continues to build. When butterflying the chicken in step 1, we cut along only one side of the backbone and do not remove it. Chef Yia Vang, who inspired this recipe, calls the meat on the backbone “chef snacks.” Haam choy is the pickled mustard green that's sold whole or halved in brine; it can be found in Asian markets. You can use jarred pickled red onions, such as Mezzetta brand, or you can make your own. The kua txob (pronounced “kuwah-tsaw” and meaning “pepper sauce”) should have a little bit of heat to it, though the lime juice does a lot to balance this out. We like to leave the seeds in the red Fresno chile when chopping it, but if you prefer a milder sauce, you can remove the seeds first. A red jalapeño or one or two Thai chiles can be substituted for the Fresno.

Instructions

for the chicken

Place chicken breast side down on cutting board. Using kitchen shears, cut along length of 1 side of backbone. Flip chicken breast side up and open chicken on board. Using palm of your hand, press firmly on center of breast to flatten chicken. Tuck wingtips under breasts.

Combine salt, granulated garlic, pepper, and paprika in bowl. Season chicken all over with spice mixture.

for the kua txob

Combine all ingredients in bowl; set aside.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high; cover; and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken in center of grill, skin side up. Cover and cook until breasts register 135 degrees, 35 to 45 minutes. Flip chicken skin side down and cook until skin is browned and breasts register 160 degrees and thighs register at least 175 degrees, about 15 minutes longer.FOR A GAS GRILL: Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken in center of grill, skin side up. Cover and cook until breasts register 160 degrees and thighs register at least 175 degrees, 40 to 45 minutes.

Transfer chicken to carving board, skin side up, and let rest for 20 minutes. Carve chicken and arrange on serving platter. Place haam choy and onions on side of platter. Sprinkle chicken with cilantro leaves, mint, and scallions. Serve with kua txob.