Why This Recipe Works

Although this southeastern Connecticut dish calls for day-old cooked potatoes, we wanted to see if we could develop a version that didn’t rely on leftovers. As it turned out, we could. We cooked starchy russet potatoes in light cream and butter and added a bit of baking soda to neutralize the potatoes’ tannins (and aid in creating a velvety, unbroken sauce). After topping the potato mixture with buttery cheesy bread crumbs, we baked the dish until the potatoes were bubbling and the bread crumbs were golden brown.

Before You Begin

We prefer the texture of light cream for this recipe, but heavy cream will also work. Do not use half-and-half; it has a tendency to break. Grate the Parmesan on a rasp-style grater.

Instructions

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Combine Parmesan, panko, melted butter, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in bowl; set aside.

Bring potatoes, 2 1/2 cups cream, baking soda, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low and cook at bare simmer, stirring often, until paring knife slides easily into potatoes without them crumbling, 20 to 25 minutes.

Off heat, stir remaining 1/2 cup cream and remaining 6 tablespoons butter into potato mixture until butter has melted, about 1 minute. Transfer potato mixture to 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Sprinkle Parmesan-panko mixture over top. Bake, uncovered, until bubbling around edges and surface is golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for at least 15 minutes. Serve.

to make ahead

After potato mixture has been transferred to baking dish, let cool completely, cover with aluminum foil, and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Before applying topping, bake, covered, until heated through, about 35 minutes. Apply topping and continue to bake, uncovered, 15 to 20 minutes longer