Why This Recipe Works

Ernest Hemingway’s Wild West Hamburgers—a curious cross between meatloaf and steak tartare—inspired these meatloaf burgers. We started from a base of 85 percent lean ground beef mixed with meatloaf staples like ketchup, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, parsley, and an egg for cohesion. A teaspoon of onion powder made an easy substitute for sautéed onion, and crispy panko created a convenient panade to bind the burgers and retain moisture. We started the burgers on the stovetop to develop a crispy, browned exterior before moving them to the gentler heat of the oven to cook through, mimicking Hemingway’s burgers: crispy on the outside, juicy and flavor-packed on the inside. A tangy burger sauce made from mayonnaise, ketchup, and cider vinegar replaced the thick glaze that would otherwise cloak the perfectly browned crust.

Before You Begin

Ian’s makes the test kitchen’s favorite panko bread crumbs.

Instructions

Combine panko and Worcestershire in large bowl until panko is thoroughly moistened. Stir in 2 tablespoons ketchup, parsley, egg, mustard, onion powder, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add beef and knead with your hands until just combined.

Shape beef mixture into four 3/4-inch-thick patties, about 4 1/2 inches in diameter. Press center of each patty down with your fingertips until about 1/2 inch thick, creating slight divot in patty. (Patties can be covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Transfer patties to skillet and cook without moving them until browned on first side, about 3 minutes. Flip patties and cook without moving them until browned on second side, about 3 minutes. Transfer patties to prepared rack and bake until meat registers 160 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk mayonnaise, vinegar, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and remaining 1/4 cup ketchup together in bowl.

Transfer burgers to plate and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve on buns with sauce.