Why This Recipe Works

A New England–style shrimp roll has all the textural and flavor appeal of a lobster roll with less fuss and a smaller price tag. For shrimp that are snappy, not rubbery, we cook them using residual heat. Bringing the cooking water to a full boil before adding the shrimp ensures that there is enough heat in the saucepan to cook them through. Cutting half of the cooked shrimp into ½-inch pieces gives us some meaty bites; chopping the rest finer provides textural variation and, because they fill in the spaces between the larger pieces, makes the filling more cohesive. For the rest, we hew close to tradition—top-loading supermarket hot dog bun (our favorite roll for griddling), mayonnaise, and lots of shrimp—but we add a hint of crunch in the form of small amounts of lettuce and celery. Lemon zest, cayenne, chives, and lemon wedges for serving provide complementary brightness.

Before You Begin

We like the flavor and texture of untreated shrimp, but if your shrimp are treated with salt or additives such as sodium tripolyphosphate, do not add the salt in step 1. If New England–style hot dog buns, also known as “split-top” buns, are unavailable, you can substitute regular hot dog buns, but skip the griddling. (You can also make your own split-top buns.)

Instructions

Bring 5 cups water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Stir in 1½ pounds shrimp, peeled, deveined, and tails removed and 1 tablespoon table salt. Cover and let stand off heat until shrimp are firm and opaque, about 6 minutes, shaking saucepan halfway through. Fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Transfer shrimp to ice bath and let cool for 5 minutes.

Drain shrimp and pat dry with paper towels. Cut half of shrimp into ½-inch pieces; coarsely chop remaining shrimp into pieces smaller than ½ inch.

Spread 2 tablespoons salted butter, softened, evenly on outer sides of 4 New England–style hot dog buns. Toast outside of buns in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer buns to serving platter.

Whisk ¼ cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons minced celery, 2 teaspoons minced chives, ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pinch cayenne together in medium bowl. Add shrimp and gently toss to combine. Season with salt to taste. Divide 4 leaves Boston lettuce among buns, if using. Divide shrimp mixture among buns and serve with lemon wedges.