Why This Recipe Works

Borrowing some of the flavors of Sichuan’s dan dan mian (dan dan noodles), tan tan ramen is a popular Japanese soup featuring springy ramen in a creamy, spicy broth topped with ground meat. The dish is comforting and satisfying but not heavy. Here we use ground chicken for the topping and soy milk for the soup base and then grind sesame seeds into a paste to give the dish its requisite nutty underpinning. Potent seasonings, including doubanjian (broad bean chili paste) and miso, create loads of flavor. Keeping the soy milk below a boil prevents curdling, resulting in a smooth, cohesive soup.

Before You Begin

Be sure to use ground chicken, not ground chicken breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free); ground pork can be used if preferred. Doubanjiang is also called toban djan; we like the robust flavor of brands from the Pixian district (available online), but other brands will also work. Use a spice grinder to grind the sesame seeds. You can use skim milk in place of soy milk here.

Instructions

Place ½ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms in bowl and cover with hot water. Let stand until softened, about 15 minutes. Drain mushrooms and squeeze dry; discard stems and mince mushroom caps.

Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add 1 pound ground chicken and cook, breaking up meat with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add minced shiitakes and cook 1 minute. Add 4 thinly sliced scallion whites, 2 tablespoons doubanjiang, 1 tablespoon grated ginger, and 2 minced garlic cloves and stir until fragrant and mixture evenly coats chicken, about 1 minute.

Stir in 2 cups chicken broth; 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted and ground; 2 tablespoons red miso; 2 tablespoons mirin; 1 tablespoon soy sauce; and 2 teaspoons sugar and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, stir in 2 cups unsweetened soy milk, and cook until steaming but not boiling, about 1 minute. Cover and keep warm.

Meanwhile, cook 1 pound fresh ramen noodles in large pot of boiling water according to package directions. Drain well and divide among 4 bowls.

Ladle broth over noodles and top with chicken mixture. Divide 4 teaspoons chili oil over noodles and sprinkle with 4 thinly sliced scallion greens. Serve.