Why This Recipe Works

This vibrant fried rice combines tender chunks of chicken, crisp sugar snap peas, and tender-firm grains of rice with a bold kick of heat from fresh serrano chiles and chili-garlic sauce. To prevent sogginess, we started with day-old rice—as it chills, the starch crystallizes into dry clumps that separate easily into individual grains during stir-frying. Cooking each component separately prevented overcrowding, which traps steam and turns everything mushy. An aromatic base of scallion whites, garlic, and serranos provided depth. Soy sauce and chili-garlic sauce added savory heat, while sesame oil and rice vinegar, stirred in off-heat, kept the finishing flavors bright and fresh.

Before You Begin

Day-old rice works best; alternatively, cook the rice 2 hours ahead, spread it on a rimmed baking sheet, and let cool completely before chilling for 30 minutes. For milder heat, use one serrano chile.

Instructions

Beat 3 eggs and pinch table salt in bowl until well combined. Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 12-inch carbon-steel or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until oil is just smoking. Add eggs and cook, stirring frequently, until very little liquid egg remains, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer to large plate.

Add 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to now-empty wok and heat until just smoking. Add 12 ounces chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, without stirring, until browned on bottom, about 2 minutes. Stir and continue to cook until chicken is cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer to plate with eggs.

Add 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to now-empty wok and heat until just smoking. Add 6 ounces sugar snap peas, cut crosswise into thirds and cook, stirring frequently, until bright green and crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to plate with eggs and chicken.

Add thinly sliced whites of 4 scallions, 3 minced garlic cloves, 1-2 thinly sliced serranos, and remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil to now-empty wok. Cook, stirring constantly until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 4 cups cooked long-grain white rice, room temperature and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and stir until combined. Cook, stirring frequently and pressing on rice with spatula to break up clumps, until grains are separate and heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add 2 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 tablespoon chili-garlic sauce and stir to combine. Add egg mixture and thinly sliced greens of 4 scallions and cook, stirring frequently and using edge of spatula to break eggs into small pieces, until everything is warmed through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil and 1 teaspoon unseasoned rice vinegar. Serve, passing extra chili-garlic sauce separately.