Why This Recipe Works

For our take on San Francisco’s beloved garlic noodles, we treated the garlic in multiple ways to capture its range of flavor. Gently sautéing most of the minced garlic mellowed its sharp-tasting compounds while its sugars and amino acids also underwent the Maillard reaction, turning it complex and sweet. A small amount of raw minced garlic added at the end of cooking contributed a hint of bite for balance. Garlic powder, rehydrated with water to create a paste, added roasty, round depth. Clarifying the butter before sautéing the garlic prevented the butter’s milk solids from browning and muddying the flavor of the dish. A combination of ultrasavory Maggi Seasoning, a touch of sugar, crumbly bits of Parmesan cheese, and scallions complemented the garlic and butter with complexity. Relatively thick fresh lo mein noodles have springy, satisfying chew, and simmering them very gently prevented the strands from absorbing too much water and bloating.

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Before You Begin

Using only the butterfat to cook the garlic prevents the butter’s milk solids from browning and altering the noodles’ flavor. Use the large holes of a box grater to shred the Parmesan. You can substitute fresh Chinese egg noodles (about ⅛ inch thick) or 8 ounces of spaghetti for the lo mein, and liquid soy aminos for the Maggi Seasoning. Do not replace the Maggi Seasoning with soy sauce or coconut aminos, or the garlic powder with granulated garlic. These noodles are a great accompaniment to grilled or roasted shrimp, chicken, or pork.

Instructions

Microwave butter, covered, in 1-cup liquid measuring cup at 50 percent power, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Let sit until whey and yellow butterfat separate, 3 to 5 minutes. Combine garlic powder and ¾ teaspoon water in small bowl and stir until smooth paste forms. Stir in additional ¾ teaspoon water and set aside. Crumble Parmesan into approximately ¼-inch pieces; set aside.

Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot. While water comes to boil, transfer 2 tablespoons butterfat to 10-inch skillet (it’s OK if a small amount of whey ends up in skillet). Add 2 teaspoons garlic and salt and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until garlic is pale golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add remaining ½ teaspoon garlic, stir well, and remove skillet from heat.

When water comes to boil, add noodles. Reduce heat to maintain very gentle simmer; cook, stirring occasionally, until almost tender (center of noodles should be firm with slightly opaque dot), 5 to 7 minutes. Drain well.

Add noodles and Maggi to skillet. Cook over medium-high heat, tossing with tongs, until Maggi is absorbed and any large garlic clumps are broken up, about 30 seconds. Add scallions, sugar, remaining 2 tablespoons butter (whey and butterfat), and garlic powder mixture and toss until well combined, about 30 seconds. Off heat, season with pepper to taste. Add 1 tablespoon Parmesan and toss to combine. Serve immediately, passing remaining Parmesan separately.