Why This Recipe Works

In our version of the well-known dish called spaghetti alla Nerano, we microwaved the thinly sliced rounds of zucchini with salt and water and then sautéed the drained, softened coins until they were lightly browned. This was easier than frying, and it proved to be almost as effective at moisture removal. Tossing al dente spaghetti with the zucchini, black pepper, basil, starchy pasta water, and butter created an emulsion that served as the base of a sauce, and adding a combination of mild provolone and Parmesan (to replicate the special blend of local cheeses traditionally used) made the sauce luxuriously creamy.

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Before You Begin

Be sure to use zucchini that are smaller than 8 ounces because they contain fewer seeds. Using a mandoline will make quick work of slicing the zucchini. Use a 2½-ounce block of mild provolone from the deli counter rather than presliced cheese.

Instructions

In large bowl, stir together zucchini, ¼ cup water, and salt. Cover and microwave until zucchini is softened (some slices will curl at edges) and liquid is released, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Drain zucchini in colander and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes.

Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add zucchini (do not wash colander) and spread into even layer. Cook, stirring every 4 minutes and then reflattening into even layer, until zucchini is very tender and about half of slices have browned, 10 to 12 minutes (it is OK if some pieces fall apart). (Zucchini can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1½ cups cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.

Add 1 cup reserved cooking water, zucchini, butter, basil, and pepper to pasta. Set pot over low heat and cook, stirring and tossing pasta constantly, until ingredients are evenly distributed and butter is melted, about 1 minute. Off heat, add provolone and Parmesan. Stir vigorously until cheeses are melted and pasta is coated in creamy, lightly thickened sauce, about 1 minute, adjusting consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Transfer pasta to platter and serve immediately.