Why This Recipe Works

Green gumbo, or gumbo z’herbes, was originally a Louisiana Lenten dish, intended to honor abstinence and restriction (from meat). It's now served year round, with and without meat. Here you get the quick gratification of the meatless version. Like most gumbo it starts with a dark oil-flour roux, which provides thickening power and toasty, nutty richness. What sets it apart from its cousins is loads of greens. Some recipes have up to 13 different greens, from turnip and carrot tops to collards and kale. To streamline an already-long ingredient list, here there's a mix of two: one heartier (collards, mustard greens, or kale) and one softer (spinach or Swiss chard) for a nice balance of chew and silkiness. (Feel free to experiment with whatever greens you have on hand.) Cayenne and smoked paprika amp up the smoke and spice, echoing the smokiness of meaty gumbos. Though not traditional, the addition of other vegetables—okra, green beans, and black-eyed peas—is awesome.

Before You Begin

Don't use fresh okra here, but you can use frozen spinach instead of fresh. Serve over white rice, if you like.

Instructions

Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Using rubber spatula, stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is color of peanut butter, 2 to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until roux has darkened to color of milk chocolate, 5 to 10 minutes longer.

Stir in onion, celery, bell pepper, garlic, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, paprika, and cayenne. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables have softened, 8 to 10 minutes.

Stir in water, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to boil over high heat. Stir in collard greens, 1 handful at a time; okra; and remaining 1¼ teaspoons salt. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until greens are just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in black-eyed peas; spinach, 1 handful at a time; and green beans and simmer until green beans and spinach are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and season with salt, pepper, and extra vinegar to taste. Sprinkle with scallions, if using. Serve.