Name: Simple Fried Rice
Total time: 30 min
Yield: Serves 4
Ingredients: 3 large eggs; 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided; 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided; 1 carrot, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces; 4 ounces ham steak, cut into ½-inch pieces (¾ cup); 4 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced; 4 cups cooked jasmine rice, room temperature; ¼ teaspoon pepper; 1/2 cup frozen peas

Why This Recipe Works

Stir-frying day-old rice with simple seasonings and a balance of mix-ins makes for a frugal and incredibly satisfying meal. Day-old jasmine rice worked best; the varietal is loaded with a popcorn-y aromatic compound that perfumed the fried rice with gorgeous fragrance, and when stir-fried, the hard, dry clumps relaxed into tender-firm, distinct grains. Toasting sliced scallion whites in neutral oil infused it with oniony savoriness that was subtle yet pervasive when it coated the rice. The simplicity of salt and pepper shined here. To make fluffy, tender pockets of scrambled eggs, we poured the raw beaten eggs into oil that was just smoking (not merely shimmering); the eggs puffed as their water rapidly turned to steam and their proteins set. A ratio of 2½ parts rice to 1 part mix-ins made for a rice-focused stir-fry, and we made sure to time the additions of the mix-ins so that the proteins were succulent and the vegetables were tender.

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Before You Begin

We prefer jasmine rice, but you can use any long-grain white rice in this recipe. Day-old rice works best; in a pinch, cook your rice 2 hours ahead, spread it on a rimmed baking sheet, and let it cool completely before chilling it for 30 minutes. All rice should be roughly room temperature when you stir-fry. For mix-in ideas, see "Customize Your Mix-Ins," below.

Instructions

Beat eggs and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl until well combined. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 12-inch carbon-steel or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until oil is just smoking. Add eggs and cook, stirring frequently, until very little liquid egg remains, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer to large plate.

Add 1 teaspoon oil to now-empty wok and reduce heat to medium. Add carrot and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until just beginning to brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Add ham and cook, stirring frequently, until ham is warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to plate with eggs.

Add scallion whites and remaining 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty wok. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add rice and stir until combined. (It's OK if some clumps of rice remain.) Spread into even layer. Sprinkle pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt evenly over rice. Continue to cook, stirring frequently and pressing on rice with spatula to break up clumps, until grains are separate and heated through, 2 to 5 minutes longer. Add peas, egg mixture, and scallion greens and cook, stirring frequently and using edge of spatula to break eggs into small pieces, until peas are warmed through, about 2 minutes. Serve.