Why This Recipe Works

The word “kalbi” literally means “rib” in Korean. The dish is typically made with beef short ribs cut flanken-style, across the bones, ideally ¼ inch thick. You can find this cut at Asian markets, especially ones that specialize in Korean ingredients. Kalbi is most often made with beef, but it can also be made with pork. Kalbi marinade gets its characteristic sweetness from sugar and typically some fruit. Asian pear is often used, but finding a very sweet, juicy Asian pear year-round can be a challenge. Canned pineapple provides a reliable substitute because it's consistently sweet and readily available. Ripe kiwi adds additional sweetness, but its real function was to tenderize the meat: The enzymes found in green kiwi are natural tenderizers. Just be sure not to add too much, or you'll get mushy short ribs. Aside from making sure to marinate the meat for at least 24 hours, the biggest tip for success is to cook the kalbi for longer than you might think (about 6 minutes per side on a charcoal or gas grill). Kalbi shouldn't be quickly seared on the grill like a thin steak. Short ribs are by nature a tough cut, and the last thing you want is rare kalbi. While their thinness certainly speeds up the cooking time, you still need to allow the fat to be rendered and the connective tissues to break down. The result should be tender meat with nice char resulting from the caramelization of the sugars in the marinade. You'll know when the kalbi are done because the bones will pull away cleanly from the meat with just a little bit of resistance.

Before You Begin

We call for clear rice wine here; michiu, cheongju, or mirin can be used. This recipe can easily be doubled to accommodate a larger group (you will need to marinate the ribs in two separate dishes, and you may need more charcoal if using a charcoal grill). We don't typically wash our proteins before cooking, but flanken-style short ribs tend to have a fair amount of bone fragments stuck to them because they are cut with a band saw. Rinsing is necessary to remove those fragments. A small, 8-ounce can of pineapple chunks will yield enough for this recipe. Some grocery stores sell yellow kiwi; the flavor of green kiwi is preferred here. Garnish the kalbi with sliced scallions, if desired. Kitchen shears make quick work of removing meat from the bones. To enjoy the kalbi as ssam (a Korean style of eating in which morsels of meats, plus condiments and garnishes, are wrapped in leafy vegetables), we like to tuck bite-sized pieces of beef into fresh lettuce leaves, along with small amounts of short-grain white rice, kimchi, and ssamjang (seasoned soybean paste).

Instructions

Combine sugar and soy sauce in small saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Let cool completely off heat.

Combine onion, pineapple and juice, kiwi, and garlic in blender and puree until smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer onion mixture to 13 by 9-inch baking dish; stir in wine, oil, and soy sauce mixture until combined.

Line rimmed baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Rinse ribs under cold running water to remove any bone fragments, then transfer to prepared sheet. Pat tops of ribs dry with additional paper towels.

Working with a few ribs at a time, transfer ribs to marinade, turn gently to coat, and submerge in marinade. Cover dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 2 days.

FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high; cover; and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium.

Clean and oil cooking grate. Grill ribs, uncovered, until evenly browned on first side, about 6 minutes, moving ribs as needed for even cooking and to prevent flare-ups. Flip ribs and continue to grill until evenly browned on second side, about 6 minutes longer. Transfer ribs to platter, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve.