- Combine 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 2 tablespoons pepper, and 1 tablespoon granulated garlic in bowl. Place 2 racks St. Louis–style spareribs on rimmed baking sheet and pat dry with paper towels. Flip ribs meaty side down. Sprinkle bone side of ribs with about one-third of spice mixture. Flip ribs and sprinkle meaty side with remaining two-thirds of spice mixture.
- Open bottom vent of charcoal grill completely. Arrange 40 charcoal briquettes, 2 briquettes wide, around half of perimeter of grill, overlapping slightly so briquettes are touching, to form C shape. Place second layer of 40 briquettes, also 2 briquettes wide, on top of first. (Completed arrangement should be 2 briquettes wide by 2 briquettes high.)
- Starting 2 inches from 1 end of charcoal C, place 5 (3-inch) wood chunks on top of charcoal 2 inches apart. Place a (13 by 9-inch) disposable pan in center of grill, running lengthwise into arc of charcoal C. Pour 6 cups water into disposable pan.
- Light chimney starter filled with 10 briquettes (pile briquettes on 1 side of chimney so they catch). When coals are partially covered with ash, use tongs to place them at end of C where you started wood chunks.
- Set cooking grate in place, then clean and oil grate. Place ribs side by side on grill, meaty side up, lengthwise over water pan. Cover grill, position lid vent over ribs, and open lid vent completely. Cook, without opening grill, for 2 hours.
- Meanwhile, whisk ¼ cup ketchup, ¼ cup packed brown sugar, 2 tablespoons cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons light corn syrup, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon pepper, ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon granulated garlic, and ¼ teaspoon ground cumin together in small saucepan and cook over medium heat until sugar is dissolved. (Sauce does not need to come to boil.) Set aside off heat.
- Open grill and rotate ribs 180 degrees. Brush meaty side of ribs with half of barbecue sauce. Cover grill, positioning lid vent over ribs. Continue to cook, without opening grill, for 2 hours longer.
- Transfer ribs to clean rimmed baking sheet, meaty side up. Brush meaty side of ribs with remaining sauce. Cover sheet tightly with aluminum foil and let ribs rest for 30 minutes. Cut ribs between bones. Serve.
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