Why This Recipe Works

To make risotto that features truly vibrant corn flavor, we started by blending 3 cups of fresh corn kernels with a little water and the pulpy “milk” we scraped from the cobs to yield a supersweet, bright-tasting puree that infused the rice with corn flavor. Adding the puree near the end of cooking preserved its freshness. The puree also contributed extra liquid as well as naturally occurring cornstarch: The liquid loosened up the risotto to an appropriately fluid consistency (called “all'onda” in Italian), and the cornstarch gelled and acted like a sauce, making the dish especially creamy. Instead of adding the traditional white wine, which overwhelmed the corn's flavor, we stirred in crème fraîche. The cultured dairy added much subtler acidity, and its flavor and richness underscored the risotto's creamy, luxurious profile.

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Before You Begin

Serve this risotto with a side salad as a light main course, or serve it as an accompaniment to seared scallops or shrimp or grilled meat. If crème fraîche is unavailable, you can substitute sour cream. A large ear of corn should yield 1 cup of kernels, but if the ears you find are smaller, buy at least six.

Instructions

Cut kernels from 4 to 6 ears corn to yield 4 cups. Stand 1 reserved corn cob on end on cutting board and firmly scrape downward with back of butter knife to remove any pulp remaining on cob. Repeat with remaining reserved cobs. Transfer pulp to blender. Add 3 cups corn kernels.

Process corn and pulp on low speed until thick puree forms, about 30 seconds. With blender running, add ½ cup hot water. Increase speed to high and continue to process until smooth, about 3 minutes longer. Pour puree into fine-mesh strainer set over large liquid measuring cup or bowl. Using back of ladle or rubber spatula, push puree through strainer, extracting as much liquid as possible (you should have about 2 cups corn liquid). Discard solids.

Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add 1 minced shallot, 2 teaspoons table salt, 1 minced garlic clove, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, about 1 minute. Add 1½ cups Arborio rice and 3 thyme sprigs and cook, stirring frequently, until grains are translucent around edges, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir in 4½ cups hot water. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until liquid is slightly thickened and rice is just al dente, 16 to 19 minutes, stirring twice during cooking.

Add corn liquid and continue to cook, stirring gently and constantly, until risotto is creamy and thickened but not sticky, about 3 minutes longer (risotto will continue to thicken as it sits). Stir in ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese and remaining 1 cup corn kernels.

Cover pot and let stand off heat for 5 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup crème fraîche, 2 tablespoons chopped chives, and ½ teaspoon lemon juice. Discard thyme sprigs and season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency with remaining ½ cup hot water as needed. Serve immediately.