Why This Recipe Works

We found that treating the ground beef with baking soda (so that it retained more moisture when cooked) and then breaking it down to a fine, uniform texture in the skillet delivered a tender, flavorful, and cohesive mixture that stayed put when placed on a bun. Limiting the aromatics to just onion (also treated with baking soda to soften it) made for a beefier-tasting mixture with a rich, luxurious texture. We made ketchup's sweet-tangy flavor more complex by adding vinegar, red pepper flakes, and sugar and balanced it out with generous amounts of tomato paste, paprika, and Worcestershire sauce. Finally, we served it all up on soft hamburger buns.

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Before You Begin

Tossing the beef with baking soda in step 1 helps keep it tender and juicy; adding baking soda to the skillet with the onion in step 2 helps the onion break down. You may substitute 90 percent lean ground beef in this recipe, but the cooked mixture will be a bit less tender. Serve the Sloppy Joes with pickle chips, if desired.

Instructions

Combine 1 tablespoon water and ½ teaspoon baking soda in small bowl. In large bowl, toss 1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef with baking soda mixture and ½ teaspoon table salt until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

Heat 2 teaspoons vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add ½ finely chopped onion and remaining ⅛ teaspoon baking soda and stir to coat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 2 teaspoons packed brown sugar, 2 teaspoons paprika, ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, and remaining ⅛ teaspoon table salt and cook, stirring constantly, until paprika is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add ¼ cup tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until paste is rust-colored, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add beef and cook, breaking up meat with wooden spoon, until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Mash beef with potato masher until fine-textured, about 1 minute. Add ⅓ cup ketchup, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce and stir to combine, scraping up any browned bits.

Combine ½ teaspoon cornstarch and remaining 1 tablespoon water in small bowl, then pour cornstarch mixture over beef and stir to incorporate. Cook, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens and coats beef, about 1 minute. Season with table salt, extra sugar, and extra red wine vinegar to taste. Spoon beef mixture onto 4 hamburger buns and serve.